Jun 2, 2014

Hand Block Printed Childrens’ Wear by The Color Caravan




It all started as a four month internship for our design intern Anurita Roy. She came in from Indian Institute of Craft and Design, Jaipur for her internship with The Color Caravan. We helped her explore fabrics, patterns, colors, understand the design process. Her brief was to create a clothing range for children, inspired from animals, fruits, ice creams, cars; using hand block prints.
At The Color Caravan, we are always excited about giving a new twist to our lovely Indian traditions.  And that is exactly what we did – with Anurita learning and designing to create a memorable childrens’ wear range.

  
Designs and motifs were kept simple, yet playful – appealing to children and adults alike.  We made a variety of doodles (crows, parrots were discussed, but rejected); with giraffe, elephant, pig, mouse, car and lollies making it to the final shortlist.




The design to actualization journey had now begun.  We had to look at deign repetition on fabric and placement of motifs.  With the next step being the final selection of colors to be assigned to each print.  With the next step being the conversion of these designs into wooden blocks.
 Our partner craftsman Abdul Raouf maybe just 41 years old, but has over 25 years experience in the art of block making.  Abdul made these blocks using the traditional sheesham wood,which he carved into desired shapes using steel chisels. Once carved, these blocks are soaked in oil to soften their grains.









The blocks were now ready. And we were excited about the next step in our design journey. The block printing!  We went to the finest block printers of Sanganer, Jaipur to get our fabrics printed.
 



Block printing is a 6-step process that involves:
- Pre-printing treatment – removing starch and dust by soaking the fabric in bleach for 1-2 days
- Drying the clean fabric
- Actual block printing process – which itself can be an intricate 7-8 step process, depending on number of colors used
- Drying in the sun to fix the color
- Steaming fabric in special boilers and drying
- Ironing to further fix the color permanently

We now had our precious fabrics to begin the final leg of this journey. Stitching them into cute shirts and adorable frocks for 3-9 year old boys and girls.
For boys, we chose half-sleeved shirts with two-pockets and a straight collar. The buttons matched the tones of the respective prints.





For girls we created two different patterns (don’t we girls always need more?).One was an A- line pattern with Peter Pan collar with a closing on its back. The second was a yoke pattern frock (again with a back closing), with frill and one pocket on the lower half of the frock. The color of collar, yoke and buttons matched the tones of the respective prints.




The new range is deliciously lovely (even if we do say it ourselves).  Come and buy these at The Color Caravan online store for a smart, cool summer for your kids, nieces and  nephews.

Feb 28, 2014

Revisiting the Nawabi traditions: Naqqashi Paandaans & Khaasdaans

History
Introduced during the time of the Nawabs, Naqqashi or repousse is the art of engraving that has been present in the city of Lucknow for a very long period of time. But however timeless this craft maybe, this industry of decorative engraving is slowly losing itself to antiquity. During the time of the Nawabs, it was lucrative business for the artisans to sell their craftsmanship to the British as well as the markets in North India. This craft actually marked one of the turning points for the high culture that was found in Lucknow from 18th century onwards. And engravings on metal such as on Paandaans, Khaasdaans and Ughaldaans were the objects that glorified Lucknow’s ethnicity.

Paandaan’ is basically a box with divisions which is used to keep essentials for making pan.  In the box there are two big metal cups to keep ‘kathha’ and ‘chuna’ and three to four smaller, equal sized receptacles. ‘Khaasdaan’ is the betel case in which the prepared paan  is served in formal gatherings and nowadays even on a daily basis. It is usually a tray covered with a beautiful lid. The idea of presenting paan in Khaasdaan still marks the celebration of the ‘nawabi culture’ of Lucknow city.


Jaalidaar Naqqashi Paandaan

Paandaan is a box with divisions which is used to keep essentials for making pan
Chewing paans and offering them to guests was part of Luckhnavi culture and associated with this were the Paandans and Khaasdans. The Begums used to prepare paans from the Paandans and placed them in Khaasdans to be offered by the Nawab Saheb to his guests.


Ubhaar naqqashi Khaasdaan can be used to serve chocolates.
Earlier this work of intricate naqqashi was done only on copper, brass and silver but as the times flew by and innovations and the need for market growth came in, this craft also began to be attempted on aluminum and steel as per the convenience of the customers.

Naqqashi art is on a rapid decline as only a handful of skilled artisans are left who practice this art form. There are many reasons that have lead to this slow death of the craft. Some of the reasons can to be attributed to a rapidly declining market condition that has been the reason for the deaths of many other art and craft forms. With the artists realizing that the income generated from such work is negligible, they tend to jump occupation. There have also been instances where the artists have felt less inclined in sharing their knowledge of the craft outside of themselves, their family and or even their clans. Such instances have caused the art to die out with adding of generations to the artisan’s family. Globalization and the attack of machine made products can also be another reason for the decline of this traditional craft.
At present, there are only 15 artisans who are practicing this craft.


Materials
The metals that were traditionally used are copper, brass and silver. And now, aluminum and steel are also being preferred by the artisans.

Tools
The common tools which are used are:  kalam(chisels), prakaar (compass), hathoda (hammer), nihai(iron slab) and khakha(paper stencils, dies).



Process

The raw materials are sourced from Mathura, Moradabad and Jagadhri in the form of rectangular and circular sheets.

Once the products are made, this beautiful craft of naqqashi is done on them by skilled artisans. There are two types of naqqashi: ‘ubhaar naqqashi’ and ‘jaalidaar naqqashi’. This intricate work is totally done with hands. Beautiful engraving is produced through intricate chiselling and constant hammering on the metal depending upon the designs. Various tools of different sizes and different shapes are used for the desired look.







The process of both the naqqashi is same except some forms are cut in jaalidaar naqqashi with a specific chisel.

Products
The traditional popular products of this craft are Paandaan (which contains various items used to prepare the paan), Khaasdaan (the pots in which the prepared paans are kept), Ughaldaan (used as spittoons which are necessary after chewing pan), Wajoo ka lota, (water pot), silapchi (for washing hands), Lagan (paraat), Sini (metal pate for covering), Kabgir-chammach (cooking utensils), deg (cooking pot), and jugs.
New products are being made in small sizes for gifting purposes in the ceremonies (for keeping sweets).

Wajoo ka lota
Design difference and Variation
The motifs of naqqashi are similar to those found in Mughal art designs such as the half-moon, full moon, stars and floral designs. The only difference lies in the intricacy of this work. Earlier it used to be more elaborate but now the designs are minimalist for the sake of production purposes.


Products constitutes itself mostly as a décor product
Usage difference
Earlier the products were actually used on a daily purpose for cooking food, washing hands, keeping beetle leaves and gilori and for keeping water. But now, it is limited to gifting purposes and constitutes itself mostly as a décor product.


Care
As it is a natural quality of copper to oxidize over time, it is advised that these intricate items be cleaned with vinegar and salt using a non-scratch cloth to reduce oxidization.



The Color Caravan is delighted to present a handpicked collection of intricately carved Paandaans & Khaasdaans from the city of Lucknow.
To check the collection  click here.